Cuticle oil or petroleum jelly: what each one does for your nails
Both help, in different ways. Oils slow down water loss and keep nails and skin supple. Small-molecule oils such as jojoba may also soak into the top layers of the nail. Petroleum jelly is a heavier barrier that stays on the surface. Oil first, then a lotion or balm on top, is a simple routine.
A question I get a lot is whether thick cream or petroleum jelly, like Vaseline, can replace a cuticle oil. They feel similar on the skin, but they work in different ways. This is what I took from Douglas Schoon and other professional sources.
What oils do
Oils are not the same as water. They don't add water to the nail, but they do work their way slowly between the cells of the nail plate. According to Schoon, they increase the lubrication between the layers of nail cells without the swelling and damage that too much water can cause. Oils don't evaporate like water, so with regular use they build up, and they can make nails a little more water resistant. They also form a thin film that slows water loss and replace some of the natural lipids that nail polish remover, hand sanitizer and washing strip away.
Not all oils behave the same. Oils with smaller or more elongated molecules, such as jojoba and avocado oil, soak into the upper layers of the nail plate more easily. There they work as emollients and occlusives: they help hold the nail's own moisture in and keep the nail more flexible. Heavier molecules stay on the surface. Healthy, hydrated nails are less likely to peel or crack.
What petroleum jelly does
Petroleum jelly (petrolatum) is one of the most effective occlusive barriers for skin, so it is not useless at all. Its molecules are large, so it stays on the surface and does not get into the nail plate. What it does well is protect the cuticle and the skin around the nail from drying out, which makes it very useful for very dry hands.
What I recommend
- Apply a cuticle oil around the cuticle area and across the nail every day, and especially after washing your hands.
- If your hands are very dry or it's cold and windy, put a hand lotion or balm on top of the oil to seal it in.
- Use a light oil on the nail itself. Heavy petroleum jelly is fine on dry skin, but I find a nice oil more pleasant to use on nails every day.
Healthy nails need flexibility, not just shine, and a daily habit does more than any single product.
Can I use Vaseline instead of cuticle oil?
It will help seal moisture in and protect dry skin, but it is a heavy surface barrier. Oils such as jojoba are lighter, and smaller-molecule oils can soak into the top layers of the nail, so they suit daily use on the nail and cuticle better.
Does cuticle oil moisturize the nail?
Not the way water does. Oils don't add water, but they work slowly between the nail cells, add lubrication between the layers, slow water loss and keep nails and skin supple.
Can I use both oil and lotion?
Yes. Apply the oil first, then a lotion or balm on top if your hands are very dry or the weather is harsh.
By Volha Zhybuliova
Sources: Douglas D. Schoon, Nail Structure and Product Chemistry (Milady); Scratch Magazine, How does cuticle oil work? (comments by Doug Schoon); Nail Knowledge, Cuticle Oils: Why 'Dead' Nails Still Desperately Need Them; Doug Schoon on water vs. oil (SalonGeek discussion)