Why a European/Russian e-file manicure takes more time and training
An e-file removes dead tissue around the nail quickly and precisely, but in untrained hands it is easy to over-file and thin the natural nail. It takes skill and practice, and Florida law doesn't set any special rules for it, so choosing a technician who has trained properly is up to you. That care is why this manicure takes longer.
New clients often ask why a European/Russian e-file manicure takes more time than a regular wet manicure, and why it asks for more training from the technician. The short answer is a mix of skill, safety and precision. This is what I took from Douglas Schoon's writing on electric files and from the Florida licensing rules.
The power and the risk of an e-file
An e-file is a rotary tool that turns at thousands of revolutions a minute. Schoon says that e-files can be used safely when they are used carefully and correctly, but they take knowledge, practice and skill, and he recommends specialized training in correct use before working on clients. The biggest risk he points to is over-filing. He calls over-filing of the natural nail one of the biggest problems in the nail industry, and an e-file makes it much easier to do than a hand file. The result is a thin, weak, sensitive nail.
Milady's textbook says electric files are very safe when used by trained nail technicians, and points to private classes, workshops, trade shows and manufacturers as places to get e-file training. It also names heavy-handed filing and improper use of electric files as ways to strip away the natural nail plate.
What Florida requires
A nail specialist in Florida has to complete at least 180 hours of education at a licensed school before the license exam. The Florida DBPR says its laws and rules do not address the use of devices, machinery or other equipment, so there is no separate e-file license or rule. That means nothing on a license tells you how much e-file experience a technician has. It is fair to ask about their training and experience.
What the skill involves
- Speed and pressure. A light touch and the right speed, so I work on dead tissue without pressing into the living nail.
- Angle. Careful work around the cuticle area, without cutting into the soft skin or digging into the nail plate.
- Choice of bit. The shape and grit of the bit are matched to each client's skin and nails.
Why I work dry
In a traditional wet manicure the hands are soaked to soften the skin. The nail plate takes up water quickly and swells, and gel put on a swollen nail is a common reason for early lifting (I wrote about this in the article on humidity). In a waterless e-file manicure the nail stays at its natural size, and I remove the dead tissue around the nail with fine diamond bits, working only on non-living tissue.
A manicure done this way can take longer than a regular one, because the work is slow and careful. On my booking page a manicure without polish is scheduled for 1 hour and a gel manicure for 2 hours. I take that time on purpose, so your natural nails stay healthy.
Why does an e-file manicure take longer?
The work around the cuticle is slow and precise. An e-file removes tissue quickly, so it has to be used carefully, at the right speed and with the right bit, to avoid thinning the natural nail.
Is an e-file safe for natural nails?
Schoon says it can be safe when used carefully and correctly, but it takes knowledge, practice and specialized training. The main risk is over-filing, which thins the nail.
Does Florida require special training for e-files?
Nail specialists must complete 180 hours of education. The Florida DBPR says its laws and rules do not address the use of devices or equipment, so there is no separate e-file license. It is fine to ask your technician about their training.
Why is the manicure done without water?
Nails swell when they absorb water, and gel put on a swollen nail is more likely to lift. A dry manicure keeps the nail at its natural size.
By Volha Zhybuliova
Sources: Doug Schoon, Thoughts on Electric Nail Files (Nail Knowledge); Florida DBPR, Frequently Asked Questions (nail specialist requirements); Doug Schoon, Water vs. Waterless Manicures (Nail Knowledge); Milady Standard Nail Technology, 7th ed. (Cengage Learning), Ch. 8 and Ch. 15, Electric Filing